Stickeen - Dog's Glacier Crossing

In July 1880, naturalist John Muir ventured across Brady Glacier in Glacier Bay and found a small dog named Stickeen following him onto the ice. The pair encountered a system of deep crevasses connected only by a treacherous ice bridge—Muir cut footholds to cross while Stickeen, terrified and crying, ultimately braved the 75-foot traverse. Their account documents the physical reality of glacier travel: hidden crevasses, rapidly changing ice, and the psychological toll of exposure on ice. The story remains a study in both glacial hazards and unexpected bonds forged in extreme terrain.

Access & viewing

GPS Coordinates: 42.368421351168145,-73.70411558408489
Accessibility: Boat-based viewing from safe distance accessible to mobile visitors; on-glacier access requires mountaineering expertise and equipment

Conditions & safety

Permits Required: 0

Planning advice

Nearby Attractions: Johns Hopkins Glacier, Margerie Glacier, Lamplugh Glacier, Mount Fairweather, Muir Inlet, Grand Pacific Glacier, Beardslee Islands
Nearby Facilities: Bartlett Cove Campground, Glacier Bay Visitor Information Station, Gustavus lodging and dining
Best Time To Visit: July during peak Glacier Bay season; Muir's journey occurred in July 1880
Tips Advice: Read Muir's full account before attempting glacier travel—crevasse systems are hazardous and often deadly
Glacier travel requires technical skills; hidden crevasses are concealed by snow bridges
Brady Glacier has retreated significantly since 1880; current ice configuration differs dramatically from Muir's route
Access is via boat tour or float plane from Gustavus; guided services operate May–September
Glaciers are actively changing; ranger guides have current safe-access information and can explain glacial retreat
Insider Tips: Muir's original Stickeen book (1909) is available in full text through NPS—read it for context before visiting
Glaciers calve actively; maintain safe distance from unstable ice cliffs (100+ feet minimum)
Float plane tours offer glacier-level views unavailable from boats
Bring rain gear even in July—Glacier Bay weather changes rapidly
Request experienced naturalist guides who can explain landscape changes since Muir's era
Pack binoculars to spot wildlife at safe distance; whales, seals, and eagles are common

More details

Park Area: Glacier Bay
Family Friendly Notes: Boat-based glacier viewing suitable for families with mobility to board small vessels; do NOT attempt on-glacier travel with children or inexperienced hikers. Dress warmly—marine exposure and spray create rapid cooling even in summer. Life jackets required on tour boats.
Recent Updates: Brady Glacier continues rapid retreat; current ice extent significantly reduced from 1880 levels
Attraction Type: Historical Glacial Site
Elevation Feet: 0
Accessibility Level: Glacier traverse required; extreme technical difficulty
How To Get There: Boat or float plane access from Gustavus; guided glacier tours operate from Bartlett Cove during peak season (late May–early September)
Parking Availability: Not applicable; water-based access only
Road Type: No road access
Seasonal Access: Typically accessible late May through early September; peak visitation in July
Entry Fees: No NPS entrance fee; boat tour and float plane access fees apply
Main Features: Brady Glacier, crevasse fields, ice bridges, glacial landscape
What Youll See: Glacier ice, crevasse systems, glacial melt, mountain peaks, Glacier Bay's coastal terrain
Unique Characteristics: Historical site documented by John Muir; provides baseline for studying 140+ years of glacial retreat; crevasse formation and ice dynamics case study
Safety Considerations: Glacier crossing involves severe hazards: hidden crevasses collapse under snow bridges, rapid ice change, falling into crevasses is often fatal, hypothermia risk from rain/wind. Do not attempt glacier travel without professional guides and proper mountaineering equipment. Boat-based glacier viewing requires awareness of calving ice and coastal weather hazards.
Best Viewpoints: Most accessible via guided glacier tour boat; on-glacier viewing requires mountaineering skills and ropes
Photo Opportunities: Glacier formations, crevasse patterns, ice textures; alpine light strongest early morning and late afternoon
Photography Spots: Glacier calving zones (from safe distance); crevasse patterns; Mount Fairweather backdrop; morning alpenglow on peaks; ice textures at close range during guided tours
Sunrise Sunset Quality: Alpenglow on Mount Fairweather and surrounding peaks; long daylight (near 24-hour daylight in June–July)
Visitor Center Present: 0
Restrooms Available: 0
Picnic Areas: 0
Interpretive Signs: 0
Cell Service: Likely unavailable; dependent on boat operator's equipment
Water Available: 0
Guided Tours Available: 1
Connecting Trails: No trails lead directly to Brady Glacier; accessible via boat or mountaineering route only
Nearby Services: Gustavus Dock & Ferry Terminal, Glacier Bay Visitor Information Station at Bartlett Cove, Gustavus lodging and supplies
Common Wildlife: Black bears, brown bears (100-yard distance required), mountain goats, harbor seals, humpback whales
Best Wildlife Times: July peak season for marine wildlife; bears active throughout summer months
Wildflower Peak: July
Geological Formation Type: Tidewater Glacier
Scientific Interest: 1880 glacier documentation by John Muir provides baseline for studying glacial retreat and ice dynamics; crevasse formation mechanics; climate change impact over 140+ years
Road Opening Dates: No road access
Snow Lingering: Glacier ice persists year-round; seasonal snowpack varies with summer melt
Winter Access: Winter glacier access extremely hazardous; ice conditions unpredictable; float plane access difficult due to weather and darkness
Best Visit Times: Early morning for better light and fewer boats; mid-week less crowded than weekends
Best Season: July (peak season, long days, marine wildlife activity, most reliable weather)
Weather Patterns: Sudden storm systems, fog, rain; afternoon winds; rapid visibility changes; marine spray and cooling even in summer
Busiest Season: July
Fishing Nearby: 0
Swimming Allowed: 0
Boating Allowed: 1
Climbing Areas: 0
Review Summary: Visitors approach Stickeen primarily through historical narrative and boat-based glacier viewing rather than direct on-ice examination. Ranger-led programs interpret Muir's account and explain glacial processes and retreat. Most visitors appreciate the blend of natural beauty and historical significance; some find the remoteness and limited direct access challenging.

Location

Frequently asked questions

Can I actually visit the glacier Stickeen crossed?

Not safely without mountaineering training. Brady Glacier is accessible by guided boat or float plane tours from Bartlett Cove, but on-glacier travel requires technical rope skills, crevasse rescue knowledge, and proper equipment. Most visitors observe the glacier from safe distance via tour boat.

Is the glacier still there? How much has it changed since 1880?

Yes, Brady Glacier still exists, but it has retreated dramatically since Muir's day—approximately 60+ miles of valley glaciation have vanished. The glacier's current extent is a fraction of what Muir encountered; meltwater now flows where ice once stood.

Can I bring my own dog on a glacier tour?

Most tour operators and NPS policy prohibit dogs on boats and glacier access routes due to hazards (calving ice, deep water, crevasses, marine wildlife disturbance). The Stickeen story is historical—modern safety standards differ significantly.

What exactly was Stickeen? Was it a specific dog breed?

Muir described Stickeen as 'a little dog'—sources suggest a Skye Terrier or similar small breed. Stickeen was not Muir's dog but followed him uninvited onto Brady Glacier; the dog likely belonged to someone in Muir's expedition party.

Is Glacier Bay accessible by car?

No. Glacier Bay has no road access—you must fly or ferry to Juneau, then book a commercial flight or ferry to Gustavus. Tours depart from Bartlett Cove; boat access is the only way to reach glaciers.

What are the crevasse hazards Muir described?

Crevasses are deep fissures in glaciers, often hidden by snow bridges that collapse under weight. Muir had to cut footholds across a 75-foot ice bridge over a crevasse—falling in is typically fatal. Modern travelers use ropes, ice screws, and rescue training; untrained crossing leads to death.

How long does a typical glacier tour take?

Most full-day boat tours from Bartlett Cove last 6–8 hours including travel and viewing time. Float plane tours are shorter but more expensive. Tours operate daily late May through early September.