Natural AttractionSouth Marble Island
Steller sea lions and tufted puffins gather on remote South Marble Island. Glacier Bay's premier wildlife hotspot.

In July 1880, naturalist John Muir ventured across Brady Glacier in Glacier Bay and found a small dog named Stickeen following him onto the ice. The pair encountered a system of deep crevasses connected only by a treacherous ice bridge—Muir cut footholds to cross while Stickeen, terrified and crying, ultimately braved the 75-foot traverse. Their account documents the physical reality of glacier travel: hidden crevasses, rapidly changing ice, and the psychological toll of exposure on ice. The story remains a study in both glacial hazards and unexpected bonds forged in extreme terrain.
Historical Glacial Site
Glacier traverse required; extreme technical difficulty
Brady Glacier, crevasse fields, ice bridges, glacial landscape
Glacier ice, crevasse systems, glacial melt, mountain peaks, Glacier Bay's coastal terrain
Historical site documented by John Muir; provides baseline for studying 140+ years of glacial retreat; crevasse formation and ice dynamics case study
July during peak Glacier Bay season; Muir's journey occurred in July 1880
Glacier crossing involves severe hazards: hidden crevasses collapse under snow bridges, rapid ice change, falling into crevasses is often fatal, hypothermia risk from rain/wind. Do not attempt glacier travel without professional guides and proper mountaineering equipment. Boat-based glacier viewing requires awareness of calving ice and coastal weather hazards.
Historical site documented by John Muir; provides baseline for studying 140+ years of glacial retreat; crevasse formation and ice dynamics case study
1880 glacier documentation by John Muir provides baseline for studying glacial retreat and ice dynamics; crevasse formation mechanics; climate change impact over 140+ years
Boat or float plane access from Gustavus; guided glacier tours operate from Bartlett Cove during peak season (late May–early September)
No trails lead directly to Brady Glacier; accessible via boat or mountaineering route only
Most accessible via guided glacier tour boat; on-glacier viewing requires mountaineering skills and ropes
Glacier formations, crevasse patterns, ice textures; alpine light strongest early morning and late afternoon
Glacier calving zones (from safe distance); crevasse patterns; Mount Fairweather backdrop; morning alpenglow on peaks; ice textures at close range during guided tours
Black bears, brown bears (100-yard distance required), mountain goats, harbor seals, humpback whales
Sudden storm systems, fog, rain; afternoon winds; rapid visibility changes; marine spray and cooling even in summer
Johns Hopkins Glacier, Margerie Glacier, Lamplugh Glacier, Mount Fairweather, Muir Inlet, Grand Pacific Glacier, Beardslee Islands
Gustavus Dock & Ferry Terminal, Glacier Bay Visitor Information Station at Bartlett Cove, Gustavus lodging and supplies
Boat-based viewing from safe distance accessible to mobile visitors; on-glacier access requires mountaineering expertise and equipment
Boat-based glacier viewing suitable for families with mobility to board small vessels; do NOT attempt on-glacier travel with children or inexperienced hikers. Dress warmly—marine exposure and spray create rapid cooling even in summer. Life jackets required on tour boats.
Bartlett Cove Campground, Glacier Bay Visitor Information Station, Gustavus lodging and dining
" Visitors approach Stickeen primarily through historical narrative and boat-based glacier viewing rather than direct on-ice examination. Ranger-led programs interpret Muir's account and explain glacial processes and retreat. Most visitors appreciate the blend of natural beauty and historical significance; some find the remoteness and limited direct access challenging."
Not safely without mountaineering training. Brady Glacier is accessible by guided boat or float plane tours from Bartlett Cove, but on-glacier travel requires technical rope skills, crevasse rescue knowledge, and proper equipment. Most visitors observe the glacier from safe distance via tour boat.
Yes, Brady Glacier still exists, but it has retreated dramatically since Muir's day—approximately 60+ miles of valley glaciation have vanished. The glacier's current extent is a fraction of what Muir encountered; meltwater now flows where ice once stood.
Most tour operators and NPS policy prohibit dogs on boats and glacier access routes due to hazards (calving ice, deep water, crevasses, marine wildlife disturbance). The Stickeen story is historical—modern safety standards differ significantly.
Muir described Stickeen as 'a little dog'—sources suggest a Skye Terrier or similar small breed. Stickeen was not Muir's dog but followed him uninvited onto Brady Glacier; the dog likely belonged to someone in Muir's expedition party.
No. Glacier Bay has no road access—you must fly or ferry to Juneau, then book a commercial flight or ferry to Gustavus. Tours depart from Bartlett Cove; boat access is the only way to reach glaciers.
Crevasses are deep fissures in glaciers, often hidden by snow bridges that collapse under weight. Muir had to cut footholds across a 75-foot ice bridge over a crevasse—falling in is typically fatal. Modern travelers use ropes, ice screws, and rescue training; untrained crossing leads to death.
Most full-day boat tours from Bartlett Cove last 6–8 hours including travel and viewing time. Float plane tours are shorter but more expensive. Tours operate daily late May through early September.
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